Whether for the creepiness value or an interest in mummification, the granite tomb of Lenin is a must-see, especially since (if some people get their way) the former leader may eventually end up beside his mum in St Petersburg. For now, the embalmed leader remains as he has been since 1924 (apart from a retreat to Siberia during WWII).

Vladimir Ilich (Lenin) died of a massive stroke on 22 January 1924 when he was 53 years old, was embalmed six months later, and has now become the world's most famous mummy.

From 1953 to 1961, Lenin shared his tomb with Stalin. In 1961 at the 22nd Party Congress, the esteemed and by then ancient Bolshevik, Madame Spiridonova, announced that Vladimir Ilich had appeared to her in a dream, insisting that he did not like spending eternity with his successor (so much for the atheistic, no after-life thing, Vlad). With that, Stalin was removed, and given a place of honour immediately behind the mausoleum.

Before joining the queue at the northwestern corner of Red Square, drop your camera at the left-luggage office inside the State History Museum, as you will not be allowed to take it with you. Then, after trouping past the oddly waxy figure, emerge from the mausoleum and inspect where Stalin, Brezhnev and other Communist heavy-hitters are buried along the Kremlin wall.

No picture can prepare you for the crazy confusion of colours and shapes that is St Basil's Cathedral. This ultimate symbol of Russia was created between 1555 and 1561, replacing an existing church on the site. Its design is the culmination of a wholly Russian style that had been developed building wooden churches.

It was built to celebrate Ivan the Terrible's capture of the Tatar stronghold, Kazan. Legend has it that Ivan had its architect blinded so that he could never build anything comparable. The cathedral owes its name to the barefoot holy fool Vasily (Basil) the Blessed, who predicted Ivan's damnation and added (correctly), as the army left for Kazan, that Ivan would murder a son. Vasily died while Kazan was under siege and was buried beside the church which St Basil's soon replaced. He was later canonised.

St Basil's apparent anarchy of shapes in fact hides a comprehensible plan of nine main chapels: the tall, tent-roofed one in the centre; four big, octagonal-towered ones, topped with the four biggest domes; and four smaller ones in between. An extra northeastern chapel over Vasily the Blessed's grave and a tent-roofed southeastern bell tower were added later.

Only in the 1670s were the domes patterned, giving St Basil's its multicoloured appearance. From 1772-84 the cathedral received a metal roof and a whitewashing and its domes were gold-leafed, in keeping with the fashion of the time. Although Napoleon ordered it destroyed in 1812, his troops didn't have enough time to complete the task. In 1817 the cathedral returned to its present colourful appearance.

The Sandunovskiye Baths, in the city centre's northern winding streets, is Moscow's most famous bathhouse. The fading but grand 19th-century baths are a mixture of sauna and social club, with sexes strictly segregated. For hours you can move between steam rooms and pools, interspersed with massages and twig whippings.

Travellers to Russia have for centuries commented on the particular (or in many people's eyes, peculiar) traditions of the banya (bathhouse), regularly enjoyed by numerous Muscovites at Sandunovskiye. The banya's main element is the parilka (steam room), which can get so hot it makes the Finnish look like sauna-wusses in comparison.

The first stage is to strip down in the changing room, wish 'Lyokogo para' (something of the order of 'May your steam be easy') to your mates, then head into a dry sauna. After that it's into the parilka where, after a good steam, someone will inevitably stand up, grab a tied bundle of venik (birch branches) and, well, beat themselves or each other with it.

Next you run out and plunge into an ice-cold pool (basseyn). With your eyelids now draped back over your skull, you stagger back into the changing room to hear your mates say 'S lyogkim parom' ('Hope your steam was easy!'). Then you drape yourself in sheets and discuss world issues before repeating the process five to 10 times over a two-hour period.

Kuklachev Cats Theatre features a troop of talented felines performing astounding acrobatic feats. The cats dance, walk tightropes, balance balls on their noses, do pawstands, jump from great heights, and unerringly negotiate complex mazes. The theatre is the brainchild of Yuri Kuklachev, a former circus clown.

Kuklachev got the idea for the theatre 25 years ago when he saw a hungry kitten doing somersaults for its supper. The kitten, Romashka, became his first performer, and worked with Kuklachev for 22 years.

The feline stars of the theatre are strays or gifts, and are shown the utmost respect. 'We do not use the word train here,' says Kuklachev, 'because it implies forcing an animal to do something; and you cannot force cats to do anything they don't want to. We play with the cats.' The plays that the theatre performs are shaped by the cats' individual skills and preferences, revealed to Kuklachev during the many hours he spends with them.

The theatre is a great favourite with Moscow children. After the show, kids are invited backstage to meet the kittens that are constantly being born in the theatre. If they have their parents' permission, they can take one home.

The stronghold of Russian political power, the Kremlin occupies a roughly triangular plot of land covering little Borovitsky Hill on the north bank of the Moscow River, probably first settled in the 11th century. Today it's enclosed by high walls. Red Square lies outside the east wall.

The Kutafya Tower, which forms the main visitors' entrance, stands away from the Kremlin's west wall. Most visitors are surprised to see so many churches in what was, for decades, a den of militant atheism, but the Kremlin was once the centre of Russia's Church as well as its State. Start with Archangel Cathedral (the royal burial church), Assumption Cathedral (the burial church of religious leaders) and Annunciation Cathedral (icons, icons everywhere).

Ivan the Great Bell Tower is a famous Moscow landmark, visible from 30km (20mi) away, with the cracked Tsar Bell at its foot. The towers lining the Kremlin include the Tower of Secrets (the oldest) and the Gothic and Renaissance Saviour's Tower.

Tucked away in the western back streets of the city is Moscow's hot spot for serious dancing. The exotic international theme includes local DJs, live music (rock and Latin), salsa lessons on Tuesday nights, carnivals, theme nights and an Arabian-style chill-out room. All nights fill with regulars so be early to skip the queue.

Kult is a hang-out for arty types, complete with a big screen showing avant-garde films and a gallery featuring local artists. DJs spin all kinds of music, with an emphasis on bossa nova. Board games, hookah pipes and cool vibes make this one of Moscow's most chilled locations. Beware: just because it's bohemian doesn't mean you don't have to look good.

An evening at the Bolshoi is still one of Moscow's most romantic options, with an electric atmosphere in the glittering six-tier auditorium. Both the ballet and opera companies perform a range of Russian and foreign works.

Since the Soviet collapse (and even before) the Bolshoi has been marred by politics and scandal. Yet the show must go on - and it will. At the time of research, however, the Bolshoi had closed its main stage for long-needed renovations (expected to reopen in 2008). In the meantime, the smaller New Stage (Novaya Stena) will be open. In spring 2005, the New Stage showed the controversial Children of Rosenthal, the first world premier performed at the Bolshoi in years. In theory, tickets can be reserved by phone or internet, or they can be bought from the box office. It is usually necessary to buy them well in advance, especially during peak tourist periods. Otherwise, the easiest way to get tickets is to go there on the day of the performance and buy them from a tout. Expect to pay plenty. Exercise caution so that you don't buy tickets for a show that was, say, last year.

Outdoor seating and classic diner decor have made the Starlite Diner a long-time favourite of Moscow expats. The extensive brunch menu includes all kinds of omelettes, French toast and fresh squeezed juice. Otherwise, you can't go wrong with burgers and milkshakes, any time of day or night.

Sushi is all the rage in Moscow these days. To get in on the ground floor, head to this hip Japanese cafe. Dishes are colour-coded to specify price; at the end of the meal the server clears the empty plates and uses them to calculate the bill.

The acronym stands for Tsentralny Dom Literatov, or Central House of Writers, which is the historic building housing this fancy restaurant. A glittery chandelier above, plush carpets under foot and rich oak panelling all around create a sumptuous setting for an old-fashioned Russian feast.