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Travel Guide » Asia » Mudumalai
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Mudumalai
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(Tamil Nadu)


As Wild as it Gets

A little distance past Bandipur in the direction of Ooty, you'll reach the Ari Gouder Bridge with its arched beams to the sides, built in typical Tamil Nadu style. Cross it and there is a check-post. Pass it and you're inside the Mudumalai National Park. Which effectively means the contiguous forests just assume a different name beyond the bridge.

The range of wildlife is the same as in Bandipur. But Mudumalai has two features that its neighbour doesn't the Moyar River, and proximity to the imposing Nilgiri mountain ranges. In complete contrast to laid-back Bandipur, Mudumalai is also one of the most happening sanctuaries in South India, with a large number of jungle resorts on the outskirts of the forest bringing travellers in close contact with the fauna of the Blue Mountains.

Mudumalai Sanctuary is part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve, at the foothills of the Blue Mountains. The sanctuary was set up in 1932 and has remained an effectively conserved game park since then. Evergreen forests, grasslands, swamps and a wide variety of wildlife, including one of the largest pachyderm settlements in India, gaur, tigers and panthers to deer, wild boar and monitor lizards can be found here. If the tiger can be a hard cat to spot, the sanctuary abounds with civets, antelopes, langurs and macaques, and a lot of birds. At night, the glow-worms provide alternative lighting.
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To See & Do
So how wild is Mudumalai? Consider this. Between 1943 and 1947, this area served as a jungle warfare training camp for soldiers off to war in the jungles of Burma. Nowadays, they train elephants. Theppakadu (theppam means pond, kadu is forest), which forms the gateway to the Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary, is home to an Elephant Training Camp where the big bad boys of Indian wildlife are tamed. It's believed that more elephants have been born here in captivity than anywhere else in the world.

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Jungle Safari
  Here too, you are taken on a tour of the wild. While there are those who swear that the early morning ride is the best, there are others who claim to have seen the best sights towards evening. The vehicles of the Forest Department, unfortunately, are quite rickety and rattle a great deal. They don?t excessively unnerve the wild animals as much as irritate the passengers inside. While inside the forests, observe carefully... the flitting butterflies near the waterholes, the herds of elephants and spotted deer, the golden-brown giant Malabar squirrel, the sambhar doe that pricks its ears, alarmed by the distant call of the langur high up in the branches and the ever-present, riotously coloured birds. You can also take a long drive in your own vehicle along the main highway passing through the area, towards daybreak or evening. It?s a lot more comfortable than the official safari and also throws open more chances to do some good wildlife spotting. Elephants, sambhar, gaur, spotted deer and even wild dogs (dholes) show up regularly in the vicinity of the road itself, having grown quite accustomed to the din of passing vehicles. And if you have the luck of the gambler, you'll even end up seeing a passing panther. Locals will approach you for a night safari which in reality is nothing but driving on this very road late at night! Go if you must, but never, ever get off your vehicle to hang around. A charging elephant or a gaur may not get you in 10 seconds, but this is not the done thing in a sanctuary, in keeping with the respect that the concept of protection and conservation needs to be accorded. Forest Department safari Rs 25 Timings 7 am and 3.30 pm. All the hotels arrange safaris.

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Theppakadu Elephant Camp
  Situated right across a small iron bridge on the Moyar, that looks like it was transplanted from a Second World War film set, at the junction of the roads leading to Masinagudi, Ooty and Mysore, this is one of the biggest camps in South India. As many as 27 elephants are tended to at Theppakadu. Kept here for timber logging and such other forestry chores, these elephants are brought to the camp twice a day from the forest, once in the morning and once in the evening. The animals are scrubbed clean in the Moyar by the mahouts and at times by the mahouts children, some as small as seven or eight years old. What an amusing sight it is to see a miniscule human urchin confidently getting onto the back of the biggest land mammal on earth, and commanding it to do his bidding. At about 6 pm, a small act takes place. Two elephants from the camp, invariably the younger ones, are lead to a small Vinayaka Temple in the vicinity. They circumambulate the shrine ringing a small bell in obeisance to the almighty. And then, a plate of camphor is lit.

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Elephant ride
  Imagine a turbulent roller-coaster ride slowed down to single frames. That's what an elephant ride feels like and it's even more pronounced on the undulating terrain of Mudumalai. If bus rides make you queasy, if you have spondylitis or just had lunch, better give this activity a miss. That said, the elephant is the safest and quietest way to explore wildlife. Despite its size, the elephant?s feet land softly because of its layers of adipose cushioning. The mahout manoeuvres the elephant using a subtle combination of pushes and prods. Press over the left ear to turn left and on the right if you have to turn right. Pressing under the ear is like a toggle. But why the need for directions when there's a faint path, which the elephant has been traversing for ages and it's supposed to have a good memory anyway? Ask the mahout and he'll tell you that if he stopped giving directions, the elephant would stop in his tracks and start eating. The elephant has a humongous appetite and if left unchecked, can go on eating for hours. Elephants consume roughly 150 kg of fodder and 90 litres of water daily. So you've got to keep them busy all the time. The problem is the constant 'hurrr, hurrr' of the mahout, which is the last thing you want to hear as you focus your binocs on a great flameback woodpecker or a fantail flycatcher. Still, it's any day better than the noisy van ride and much more intimate. The elephant's ability to penetrate dense thickets where even the best 4wD will fail is another advantage. While most elephant rides turn out fruitless in terms of spotting tigers, a sighting of chital or the flying squirrel is almost guaranteed. Ride fees Rs 122 for 4 people Timings 7 am and 3.30 pm.
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Sunaad Raghuram and Anurag Mallick
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