Its foundations were laid by Guru Teg Bahadur, who named this city Chak Nanki after his mother. However, Anandpur Sahib is most vividly associated with Guru Teg Bahadur's son, the tenth and last Sikh guru, Gobind Singh.
Heavily fortified thanks to the longstanding acrimony between the Sikhs and the Mughal emperor, as well as unstable relations with neighbouring states, Shri Anandpur Sahib housed the six garrisons of Anandgarh, Lohgarh, Fatehgarh, Holgarh, Taragarh and Kesgarh.
It was at Kesgarh that the panj pyaras answered the Guru's call to arms on the feast of Baisakhi and were baptised with amrit, originating the Khalsa. Here the men and women of the Sikh religion were given the titles of Singh and Kaur, and enjoined to wear kesh (long hair), kada (iron bangle), kachha (drawers), kanga (comb) and kirpan (dagger). The citadel on this hillock commemorates the mass baptism. At the nearby museum of Sikh history, visitors can still salute the khandah with which Guru Gobind Singh stirred the amrit over 300 years ago.
Anandgarh itself was the target of treachery when the Mughals and their allies massacred the Sikhs (including the 10th guru's sons) leaving the beseiged fort when safe passage had been promised. Lohgarh is the former armoury, weapons factory and martial training grounds.
But it is Holgarh that draws droves during the colourful Hola Mohalla festival of war, held the day after Holi. The week-long celebrations instituted by Gobind Singh incorporate martial exercises and horse riding. The Nihangs with their conical turbans, armed with spear and sword, always steal the show.
Stay in Anandpur Sahib at the Tourist Bungalow (Tel: 01887-223122; Tariff: Rs 350-450), which has a restaurant and offers room service and hot water. If that's full up, stay in nearby Rupnagar, at Punjab Tourism's Pink Cassia Hotel (Tel: 01881-222097; Tariff: Rs 300-800).