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Travel Guide » Asia » Nasik
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Nasik
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(Maharashtra)


A Sangam of Different Realities

Temples, wineries, orchids, industries... Nasik has all of these and then some. It's this sangam (confluence) of different realities that has left the town with a slightly confused identity. It takes pride in its ancient heritage but has all the aspirations of a modern city. It's urban in a pastoral setting. And sometimes it's a throwback to older, slower times in the middle of a busy city street. And though Nasik doesn't quite have the feel of a traditional hill station, it's certainly up there on the Deccan Plateau, sitting snugly in a bowl formed by the high Sahyadri Hills. Indeed, it is these many identities that come together to make Nasik an irresistible holiday destination with something on offer for everyone from the devout ascetic to the flashy wine connoisseur.

After all, this is the grape-wine capital of Maharashtra and the home of one of India's 12 holy Jyotirlingas, from which spring the sacred waters of the queen of Deccan rivers the Godavari. Nasik is also one of just four cities that host the greatest of great Hindu melas the Kumbh.

Be that as it may, it's the religious face of Nasik that lords it over the city's other avatars (incarnations). The pulsating energy in the narrow bazaars of the old city seems to revolve around the Panchavati-Ramkund area located along the banks of Godavari River. This is where, it is believed, the ancient Ayodhya royals Ram, Sita and Laxman lived during their years in exile, and this is also where most visitors head first upon reaching Nasik.
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To See & Do
Nasik, quite appropriately, has split geography to host its split identities. Modern Nasik is a mini-Mumbai, a haphazard shamble of high rises fringing both sides of the Mumbai-Agra Highway. The heart of the old city couldn't be more different a congested beehive of activity, with narrow streets and ancient temples throbbing with energy, piety and sales, through which flows a sacred Indian river. Yet another geographical split comprises the hills that surround it on all sides. It's as if Nasik could not make up its mind about what it wanted to be or as if it wanted to be all things to all people and it does a pretty good job of the latter. The best way to cover the pilgrim circuit is to start with the sites clustered around Panchavati, then reach out to Anjneri and the sacred Tryambakeshwar Jyotirlinga. When you're done with the holy tour, head off to the wineries and other such poor karma entertainment.

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Panchavati
  This area gets its name from the five (panch) banyan trees (vadis) that grow by the Godavari. It is also believed that Panchavati was once part of the Dandakaranya Forest, the abode of the exiled trio from the Ramayana for a while. It is also claimed to be the site of one of the best known of all incidents in the epic the abduction of Sita by Ravana. You?re sure to see pilgrims taking a holy dip in the waters of the Godavari here, in the fervent belief that such an action will wash away all past sins. Before you get all excited and plunge into this short-cut to heaven, be sure that it?s at a tirtha, or point, which is indeed considered sacred simply jumping in anywhere is not guaranteed to wash your soul clean. These well-known points are dotted all along the banks and include the Golan, Runamochan, Koti and Chakra tirthas.

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Ramkund
  The name is derived from the belief that Lord Ram used to bathe in the sacred kund, a large pond, along the course of the Godavari in the Panchavati area. Ram is also said to have performed funeral rites for his father, Dashrath, the king of Ayodhya, here before immersing the ashes in the kund. At the very end of Ramkund, the Godavari takes a spectacularly sharp, perpendicular turn southwards. This point is considered particularly sacred and pilgrims favour a dip here during the Kumbh.

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Tapovan
  This site lies precisely at the sangam of two streams of the Godavari on the western outskirts of Nasik. Today, the only reminder that the area was once part of the Dandakaranya Forest, in which Ram performed penance, are the statues of three spotted deer on the banks of the river. Here it was that Laxman responded to the advances of Ravana's sister Surpanakha by cutting off her nose.

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Temple Tour
  The important temples you can visit while in Panchavati include Naroshankar Temple, across the river from Ramkund. The temple is dedicated to Shiva and boasts an enormous church bell, taken off the Portuguese by Chimaji Appa during the battle of Vasai (Bassein) in 1739. Called the Naroshankar Bell after the Peshwa officer for whom the temple is named, its piercing sound gave rise to that famous Marathi term for a person who speaks in an irritatingly high-pitched voice naroshankarachi ghanta. Next on your temple tour is Kapileswara Temple, dedicated to the God of Skulls (Shiva), set on a slight rise near Ramkund. The 70-ft-high black stone Kalaram Temple with its gold-plated dome is located a short drive west of Panchavati. Its name is derived from the three jet-black idols of Ram, Sita and Laxman enshrined within. Nearby is a sacred cave, Sita Gumpha, believed to have been Sita's special retreat. A little further out is Muktidham Temple, 7 km south-west of the city just off NH50. Two features of this structure make it distinctive. One, it has been built with pure white Makrana marble from near Kuchaman in Rajasthan, and the other is the 18 chapters of the Bhagawad Gita etched on its walls. Also engraved on the walls are the images of all the 12 Jyotirlingas, and visiting this one shrine is believed by some to be the convenient equivalent of doing the entire Jyotirlinga circuit.

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Anjneri
  The little village on the road to Tryambakeshwar (turn left onto a dirt road just under a lingam-like mountain) is the gateway to what is believed to be the birthplace of Hanuman. To reach the actual site, drive 2 km beyond the village and into the forested hills to a little shrine. Then trek up a steep mountain, which could take anywhere between 30 minutes and 2 hours, depending on fitness levels. If you don?t have the time or the energy, pay your respects at the large statue of Hanuman to the right of the main road, just before you enter Anjneri.

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Pandav Leni Caves
  This group of 24 Buddhist caves (pronounced pandoo lena), excavated around 1 AD, are located on a wedge up in Trivashmi Hill, some 8 km out of the city on the Mumbai-Agra Highway, above Dadasaheb Phalke Gardens. A delightful half hour can be spent examining the carvings within the caves.

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Dadasaheb Phalke Smarak
  Named after the noted film producer Dadasaheb Phalke, these sprawling gardens at the foot of the Pandav Leni Caves are the pride of Nasik. Musical fountains, well-maintained lawns, fast food outlets and museums that highlight the work of Dadasaheb Phalke and the cultural heritage of the city make it a popular retreat for residents and visitors alike.

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Dudhsagar Waterfalls
  A popular picnic spot for local residents, these falls, 8 km west of the city near Someshwar Temple, are at their best during and after the rains. By summer time, they're reduced to a mere trickle.
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Gustasp Irani
  
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