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Panhala
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(Maharashtra)


A Tale of two Marathas

Panhala dashes all preconceived notions of a conventional Indian hill station. It is smaller than Mahabaleshwar, larger than Matheran. Size, though, isn't everything, as Panhala's importance to the collective Maharashtrian imagination proves. Though the little hill town measures just over 7 km in circumference, its strategic location near Kolhapur, with easy access to the Konkan, caused it to fall into the hands of many dynasties at various points of time. However, Panhala is mostly identified with the Maratha warrior-king Shivaji, who captured it in AD 1659.

Because of its minuscule size a small plateau tucked within the walls of a 12th-century fort Panhala pleads to be explored on foot. This little-known holiday retreat has none of the typical touristy pastimes. Indeed, the lack of development and organised activity is part and parcel of Panhala's charm. Here one creates one's own entertainment. It is the ideal place to relax and do a whole lot of nothing.
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The Maratha Saga of Panhala
Panhala Fort was built by Raja Bhoja in the late 12th century. It saw a procession of rulers the Shilaharas, the Yadavas, the Adilshah of Bijapur. One of the most touching extant details of this era is a tiny carving of Ganesh which graces one of the gates erected by Adilshah. The idol wears a Muslim cap, signifying Muslim-Hindu amity.

Panhala's Maratha saga began when Shivaji captured the fort in 1659 from the Adilshah. The following year, he successfully escaped during a long siege by the Bijapur army.

The escape was made possible largely by the heroics of two loyal aides, Shiva Kharshed and Baji Prabhu Deshpande. Kharshed disguised himself as Shivaji and pretended to surrender to Bijapur, to give his master a head start over the enemy forces that would give pursuit. When the true identity of the warrior was established, he was killed and the troops set out to capture Shivaji. In stepped Deshpande, who laid down his life holding them at bay at the head of a narrow pass.

Today, bronze images of these two heroes with raised swords and spears greet visitors as they enter the walled citadel, near Teen Darwaza.
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Gustasp Irani
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