Rio is divided into a Zona Norte (North Zone) and a Zona Sul (South Zone) by the Serra da Carioca, steep mountains that are part of the Parque Nacional da Tijuca. These mountains descend to the edge of the city centre, where the two zones meet.

Rio is definitely a tale of two cities: the upper and middle classes reside in the Zona Sul, the lower class in the Zona Norte. Favelas (shantytowns) cover steep hillsides on both sides of town - Rocinha, Brazil's largest favela, is in Gávea, one of Rio's richest neighbourhoods. Most industry is in the Zona Norte, as is most of the pollution. The ocean beaches are in the Zona Sul.

Rio's buses are a real mixture of the good, the bad and the ugly. It's easy to track down the right bus, but they're often crowded, slowed by traffic and driven by maniacs; they are also the scene of many of the city's robberies. Don't carry any valuables, and be cautious.

Rio's excellent subway system is limited to points north of Botafogo. The two air-conditioned lines are cleaner, faster and cheaper than buses.

Taxis within the city are quite reasonably priced if you're dividing the fare with a friend or two. Taxis are particularly useful when travelling at night and carrying valuables, but keep in mind that they are not always a completely safe and hassle-free option. Car-rental agencies are at the airport and clustered together on Avenida Princesa Isabel in Copacabana. Prices aren't cheap, but they do go down a little off-season.

Rio was once serviced by a multitude of trams. However, the only one still running is the Santa Teresa tram, known locally as the bondinho. It's still the best way to get to Santa Teresa from downtown.

If you prefer to rely on your own two feet, be careful! Drivers run red lights, run up on the sidewalks and stop for nothing and no one.