The enormous cone-shaped cathedral was inaugurated in 1976 after 12 years of construction. Among its sculptures, murals and other works of art, the four vivid stained-glass windows, which stretch 60m (196ft) to the ceiling, are the most breathtaking.

The Museu de Arte Sacra (Museum of Sacred Art) in the basement contains a number of historical items, including the baptismal font used at the christening of royal princes and the throne of Dom Pedro II. The cathedral can accommodate up to 20,000 worshippers.

This exotic botanical garden, first planted by order of the prince regent Dom João in 1808, has 6000 varieties of plants. Though the gardens are serene on weekdays, they blossom on weekends with families and music. The row of palms, planted when the garden first opened, and the huge Vitória Regia water lilies are highlights.

After a devastating fire in 1978 that consumed 90% of its collection, this museum is finally back on its feet and now houses 11,000 permanent works, including pieces by Brazilian artists Bruno Giorgi, Di Cavalcanti and Maria Martins. Curators often bring excellent photography and design exhibits to the museum, and the cinema hosts regular film festivals.

The museum is immediately recognisable by the striking postmodern edifice designed by Alfonso Eduardo Reidy. The landscaping of Burle Marx is no less impressive.

This lime-green, neogothic palace sitting in the Baía de Guanabara looks like something out of a fairy tale. It was designed by engineer Adolfo del Vecchio and completed in 1889. Originally used to supervise port operations, the palace is famous as the location of the last Imperial Ball on 9 November 1889.

Today it's open for guided tours three times a day from Thursday to Sunday; tours leave from the dock near Praça XV.

The zoo at Quinta da Boa Vista has a wide variety of reptiles, mammals and birds, mostly indigenous to Brazil. Special attractions include the large walk-through aviary and the night house, which features nocturnal animals. The monkey house is also a crowd favourite.

Gávea's stellar attraction, the Planetário (Planetarium) features a museum, a praça dos telescópios (telescopes' square) and a couple of state-of-the-art operating domes, each capable of projecting over 6000 stars onto its walls.

Visitors can take advantage of free guided observations through the far-seeing telescopes on Monday, Wednesday and Thursday from 18:30 to 20:30.

The hyper-modern Museu do Universo (Universe Museum) houses permanent exhibitions, sundials and a Foucault's Pendulum, as well as good temporary ones - the recent Mars exhibit garnered much attention. Periodically, the planetarium hosts live chorinho concerts on weekends. Check the website or the newspaper for information.

Carmen Miranda was once the highest-paid entertainer in the USA. She is also the only Brazilian to leave her prints in Hollywood's Walk of Fame. The talented Brazilian singer still has her fans in Rio, and has become a cult icon among the gay community. Check out the collection of 40s photographs and music and the starlet's flamboyant costumes and jewellery.

Created in 1968, the museum is an excellent introduction to Brazilian folk art, particularly from the northeast. Its permanent collection comprises 1400 pieces and includes Candomblé costumes, ceramic figurines and religious costumes used in festivals.

The museum also features a folklore library and a small shop selling handicrafts, books and folk music. The museum lies next door to the Palácio do Catete.

A classic Carioca boteco (open-air bar) with flair, Guimas has been going strong for almost 20 years. Trout with leeks or the honey-roast duck with pear rice go nicely with the superfine caipivodcas (caipirinhas made with vodka instead of cachaça). The small but cozy open-air restaurant attracts a more colourful mix of diners as the night progresses.

A few paintings adorn the walls of this cheerful eatery just off the beach. Here the decor matches the cooking: simple but successful. Grilled fish, risottos, pastas and lighter fare like sandwiches draw a largely local crowd.

Understated elegance is the key to Siri Mole & Cia's longstanding success - both in ambience and in the perfectly prepared seafood. Among the favourites: moqueca de siri mole (spicy, softshell crab stew), and acarajé (bean fritters filled with manioc paste and dried shrimp).

Leaves lie scattered across the floor, candles flicker on the walls. Young waiters in red aprons stand to attention while something mystical transpires in the kitchen. Plates here are heavenly: plump shrimp and coconut milk blend to perfection in bobó de camarão, and the moqueca (seafood stew) is simply outstanding.

Vegetarians interested in sampling Brazil's signature dish should visit this Zen spot on Saturdays, when tofu feijoada is served. The small menu changes regularly, and features different types of salads, soups and sucos (juices), like rose-petal juice or guaraná with mint and ginger. The cafe also serves organic wine.

The Centro de Vida Independente can provide advice for the disabled about travel in Brazil.

This is one of the area's crowd of Internet cafes.

This medical clinic has English- and French-speaking staff.

If you have the misfortune to be robbed, you should report it to the Tourist Police. No big investigation is going to occur, but you will get a police form to give to your insurance company.

Noted for its afforable excursions to the Costa Verde and Búzio, this agency also offers the convenience of an exchange office.

One of Santa Teresa's hidden gems, Rio Hostel is one of the city's most atmospheric places to stay. In a converted mansion overlooking downtown, you'll find a good mix of travellers enjoying the backyard pool, the comfortable lounges and the close proximity to Rio's best nightlife.

The friendly staff and owner are among the few in Rio's hostel industry that actually 'get it'. They've created a cosy, home-like ambience that attracts a good mix of travellers from around the globe. In addition to the three dorm rooms (which sleep four, eight and ten), there's also a handsomely furnished double room on the top floor, and a more private, newly completed chalet in back. The rooms in the main building all have stunning views of downtown when you throw open the shutters. You'll also have all the amenities you expect in a good hostel - free use of the kitchen and common areas, lockers, luggage storage, and info on the best places to go at night. Barbecue nights are held about once a week and make for a lively gathering complete with live samba music around the pool.

One of Rio's most stylish hotels, Marina All Suites has beautifully decorated rooms, doting service and all the creature comforts you can imagine. The best rooms in the ocean-fronting hotel have splendid views of the shoreline, and one of the city's best bars is on the 2nd floor.

You'll be in good company if you opt for the glam Marina All Suites. Aside from its location overlooking Leblon beach, the hotel draws a crowd of celebrities, models and local luminaries. As per the name, it's all suites here, meaning you'll have at least 39 sq m between the comfy bedroom and living room in which to stretch out (at the upper end, you'll have over 74 sq m). The designer suites have full views of the ocean (the other suites have a lateral view), a good sound system, and sleek, modern rooms with a vibrant colour scheme (each different from the next). Other nice features are the top-floor pool, the workout centre and steam room, the on-site theatre that you can rent out, and the excellent service that places the best of Rio at your fingertips.

The looming white Hotel Glória was once a grand 1920s beachfront hotel. Although it has lost its beach, the Glória still retains some of its old splendour, amid its classically decorated rooms and red-carpeted hallways.

The hotel rooms are spread among two buildings. The old wing has a hall full of old antiques. Inside the rooms, you'll find comfortably furnished rooms decorated either in a floral theme or more subdued yellows or tans and sizeable bathrooms with tubs. You'll also find worn, brown carpeting and a few other blemishes that the hotel seriously needs to address. A handful of renovated rooms boast wood floors, marble bathrooms and pleasant decor that perhaps warrants the price. The deluxe rooms also boast stunning views over the bay. The new wing has trim, modern rooms without any of the old-fashioned ambience. There are also several pools (one is curiously shaped like an amoeba) and a fitness centre. There are pretty beaches nearby, but the water here is too polluted for swimming. You'll have to truck down to Copacabana for the real beach experience.

In the first decades of the 20th century, Casa Rosa was one of the city's most famous brothels. Today the Pink House is one of Rio's best nightspots. It has a large outdoor patio between several dance floors, where different bands play throughout the night. There's also a thrift shop here - open until about 03:00.

The rest of the party keeps going until dawn. Saturdays are the best night to go, though Casa Rosa's new Sunday roda de samba party also draws its fans - a good mix of Cariocas.

For years, Bip Bip has been one of the city's favourite spots to catch a live roda de samba. Although the ambience isn't much to speak of - just a storefront with a few battered tables - as the evening progresses, the tree-lined neighbourhood becomes the backdrop to serious, improvised jam sessions with music and revellers spilling out onto the sidewalk.

In its first incarnation, this small, opensided bar was called Bar Veloso. Its name and anonymity disappeared once two scruffy regulars, Tom Jobim and Vinícius de Moraes, penned the famous song The Girl from Ipanema, changing history (and the name of the street). Today, you'll find plenty of tourists, but little inspiration aside from the ice-cold chope.

Housed in Gávea's planetarium, 00 is a restaurant by day, sleek lounge by night. A mix of Cariocas join the fray here, though they mostly tend to be a fashion literate, Zona Sul crowd. Playground, 00's Sunday party, has quite a following among house fans gay and straight. In addition to rotating parties, the club also hosts CD-release parties.

Artwork lines the walls of this avant-garde space in Botafogo. With numerous little rooms to explore - lounge, screening room, dance floors - this old two-storey mansion embodies the most creative side of the Carioca spirit.

Brazil's largest health-food retailer, Mundo Verde sells organic products including salgados (savoury snacks) and other treats, jams made from Amazonian fruits and other assorted goods. The sun-care products are usually cheaper here than in pharmacies - and better for your skin.

Inside the grounds of the Museu do Índio, Artíndia sells a variety of indigenous handicrafts - masks, musical instruments, toys, pots, baskets and weapons. Regional artists, mostly from northern tribes, craft objects using native materials like straw, clay, wood and feathers.

One of Rio's best foreign-language book collections, da Vinci also has a wide range of art and photography books, as well as coffee-table books about Rio's history and architecture. It's one floor down - follow the spiral ramp. There's a decent coffee shop next to the bookshop.