Rome is halfway down Italy's western coast, about 20km (12mi) inland. It's a vast city, but the historic centre is quite small. Most of the major sights are within a reasonable distance of the central railway station, Stazione Termini. It is, for instance, possible to walk from the Colosseum, through the Forum, up to Piazza di Spagna and across to the Vatican in one day, but you wouldn't really want to. All the major monuments are west of the train station, but make sure you use a map. While it can be enjoyable to get off the beaten track in Rome, it can also be very frustrating and time-consuming.

The Palatine Hill and the Forum are the centre of ancient Rome. Via del Corso runs north from the Forum to Piazza del Popolo, with the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain just to its east. The Vatican is northwest of the Forum, across the River Tiber.

Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino) airport is 26km (16mi) southwest of the city. One of the most convenient ways to get into town is by the Stazione Termini direct train, which usually runs hourly from the airport. You can also get a train from the airport to Trastevere, Ostiense and Tiburtina. A night bus runs to Stazione Tiburtina. If you're driving, an autostrada runs from the airport to the city via EUR - it's a 45-minute drive and will cost you a small fortune by taxi.

Rome's other airport is Ciampino, about 20km (12mi) southeast of the city. From there you can catch a COTRAL bus to Metro Anagnina, at the end of Metro line A connecting with Stazione Termini, or you can drive down the Via Appia Nuova.

The city bus company is ATAC, and most of the main buses terminate at the bus station outside Stazione Termini where you can get a map of the bus routes. Buses run from around 06:00 to 24:00, with some services running throughout the night. The city's Metro service (which is convenient for many of Rome's sights) has two lines, both of which go through Termini. It operates from 05:30 - 23.30 (Sat 00:30), but Line A is undergoing engineering work till 2008 and closes at 21:00.

A bus ticket is also valid for the city's Metro and train services. You need to buy your ticket from a tobacconist, newsstand or vending machine before you get on the train or bus - there are hefty fines for travelling without a ticket, even if you are a dumb foreigner.

Driving in Rome is the next best thing to suicide - especially on a motorbike. Most of the historic centre of Rome is closed to normal traffic, although you will be allowed to drive to your hotel. You'll need to get a parking permit from the traffic police if you wish to park anywhere in the centre, or you'll risk being towed.

To rent a car you'll need to be at least 21 years old. If you organise your car in advance it will cost you less. There are several rental agencies for cars, motorbikes, mopeds and bicycles. If you'd rather leave the driving to someone else, you can pick up a cab from one of the city's many taxi ranks or phone one any time of day. If you call a cab, the meter is turned on as soon as you call, rather than when you are picked up.