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Sariska
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(Rajasthan)


Ancient Tigerlands

Everybody wants to go to the Sariska Wildlife Sanctuary. It?s green, serene and so close to home. But what many happy troopers don?t know is that Sariska used to dance to a very different beat not too long ago. The beat of royal drums, to be precise, heralding the arrival of the Maharajas of Alwar and their hunting dogs.
Sariska was the hunting preserve of the Alwar royals, and its palace has been privy to many of these shoots. Reams have been written on the hunting escapades of these princes. Cookbooks have been written on the fancy shikar cuisine that evolved during those years. Now, an entirely different chapter has been added to the story of Sariska, that of wildlife protection.
Gone are the traps in which hapless goats were tied to a pole to attract tigers for the princes shooting pleasure. Now, fences prevent humans from further endangering the animals. And more books are being written, detailing the efforts being made to preserve the hundreds of species endangered over the years by callous hunters. So, hopefully, you can count on wild weekends in Sariska for many years to come.
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To See & Do
You won't see many tigers in Sariska, but antelope and many species of birds and deer abound in this wooded haven in the Aravalli Hills. Save time also for a historical tour of Sariska, Alwar and Siliserh nearby, full of stories of forts and the princes locked up in them.

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Go Wild
  Early morning and evening are the best times to make trips into Sariska National Park, a Project Tiger reserve, though chances of spotting the cat are few and far between. That's not just on account of the diminishing tiger population, but more on account of the terrain: the undulating low hills, wide valleys and hill plateaus are hardly ideal for tiger-spotting. What you will in all likelihood see, though, are herds of deer nilgai, chital, sambhar with langur cavorting through the tree cover. Harder to see (though you can try your luck at the watchtowers built near waterholes) are the leopard, jackal, wild dog and hyena. Birdwatchers can spot the white-breasted kingfisher, serpent eagle, great Indian horned owl and other avian species quite easily. Frankly, though, the most enjoyable part is the drive through the park where paths dip down into the valleys and sinister shadows cross the jungle. If you want to do a cross-country jungle safari, book one of the authorised forest jeeps well in advance at one of the two hotels, Tiger Den and Sariska Palace. Entry fee Rs 25, foreigners Rs 200; Vehicle Entry Rs 125; Video camera fees Rs 200. Diesel vehicles are allowed to ply only on the tarmac routes in the jungle.

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Jeep Safari
  Hire a jeep/ Sumo for Sariska from Alwar, or the Sariska Palace Hotel. A day-trip from Alwar costs about Rs 1,000; if you stay overnight it's Rs 200-250 extra. Since jeeps are in short supply around Sariska, opt to keep your vehicle for the duration of the trip. A Gypsy is best for the jungle run. It should cost you Rs 1,000 for 3 hours.

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History Lesson
  When you're done with the animals, drive deep into the Sariska forests to the ruined fortress atop a solitary hillock at Kankwari. Here Emperor Aurangzeb imprisoned his elder brother Dara Shikoh, widely held to be the legitimate successor to the throne of Delhi. From Kankwari, move on to Neelkanth, a temple town built by the Gurjar Pratiharas. Neelkanth was mysteriously submerged under a deluge of sand and rocks centuries ago, and nobody around knows what made the town suffer such a fate. Was it an earthquake? No clue exists to date. What do exist though, are more than 300 Hindu, Buddhist and Jain temples in a spectacularly secular complex. The Naldeshwar shrine nearby attracts hordes of pilgrims and picnickers the former to the natural Shivaling formed within an old tree trunk in the higher reaches of the forest, the latter to the little brook and seasonal waterfall at the base of the 364 steps you have to climb to reach the lingam.
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Kishore Singh & Ranee Sahaney
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