Done out like an old Chongqing fisherman's cafe, with stone floors and a no-nonsense approach to food, this enormous eatery is the best place in the area for traditional cook-it-yourself spicy Sichuan-style steamboat. You can choose from an extensive MSG-free menu which includes a range of seafood, meat, eggs and vegetables.

It gets very popular on weekends when the quality of service takes a dip and as a foreigner you may find yourself ignored, so go during the week.

So, there's no riverside view and the decor makes it hard to forget you're in a hotel restaurant, but man oh man is the food fine! The sea bass with tomatoes, coriander rice and spicy marmalade is really something special while the Brazilian hot chocolate pudding is positively evil.

Voted best dining experience by the Singapore Tourism Board in 2000, Doc Cheng's lives up to its accolade. Decked out with curtained booths, high ceilings, soft lighting and chequered tiles, the atmosphere is discreetly colonial but the food is decidedly modern. The miso butterfish is a treat, as is the wasabi-crusted veal.

Seventy floors up and tastefully decorated with plush red carpets, hanging Chinese screens and subdued lighting, Equinox, and its New Asia Bar, is a must-visit. The food is not extraordinary - the grilled beef tenderloin and poached chicken with herbs are recommended - but the view is. Friendly service adds to the pleasure.

Have a Chinese physician check your pulse and tongue and prescribe something on the menu that will get your yin and yang back in balance, then tuck in, for health's sake. Whether you're after an aphrodisiac or something to stop your hair falling out, there's a herbal soup or soothing stir-fry that's just perfect for you.

Have a Chinese physician check your pulse and tongue and prescribe something on the menu that will get your yin and yang back in balance, then tuck in, for health's sake. Whether you're after an aphrodisiac or something to stop your hair greying prematurely or even falling out, there's a herbal soup or soothing stir-fry that's just perfect for you.

This is Singapore's largest mall with endless shops selling all manner of goods, a staggering 60 restaurants, cafés and a food court. One of the biggest crowd pullers is the Fountain of Wealth, which was once accorded the status of 'World's Largest Fountain' (although sadly not the world's most attractive fountain) in the Guinness Book of Records.

These former British Army barracks have been turned into warehouse shops specialising in antiques. In this delightful, pleasantly disorganised setting, you'll find anything from Kashmiri carpets and teak furniture to landscaping ornaments and antiques - and a couple of excellent wine bars. It's a fascinating place to explore, attracting crowds of expats and well-to-do Singaporeans at weekends.

This market is more than 30 years old and a fascinating glimpse into Singapore's underbelly. There's a huge jumble of goods, often sold by grizzled old Chinese 'uncles' - think old record players, battered woks and bad shirts. There's the occasional find, but it's an absorbing way to spend an hour or two whether you spend or not.

Paradoxically cast in the middle of Chinatown, the Sri Mariamman Temple is the oldest Hindu temple in Singapore. It is dedicated to the healing goddess Sri Mariamman, a favourite among Tamils for her rain-bringing inclinations and knack for curing what ails you. Each October the temple hosts the Thimithi Festival when devotees hot-foot it over burning coals.

Naraina Pillai, a trader who arrived in Singapore with Sir Stamford Raffles himself, first built a wooden temple here in 1827. The present stone building dates from 1862, though it's undergone countless renovations since then, usually in preparation for consecration ceremonies which happen every 12 years.

Far from the madding Pagoda and Smith St crowds, worshipers offer initial prayers at the Shrine of Sri Vinayagar - lord of beginnings and remover of obstacles - before presenting offerings (anything from fruit and incense to mouthwash mints) to other deities, or retreating to pray quietly in shadowy alcoves. Only the loincloth-clad priests are allowed to enter the temple's inner sanctum, where they bathe statues in coloured waters.

Architecturally out-of-this-world, the Esplanade arts and theatre development opened in 2002, the cornerstone of a government programme to turn Singapore into an arts hub. Aiming for the same impact as the Sydney Opera House, the architects wanted to challenge ingrained Singaporean conservatism, and they sure pushed the right buttons.

The controversial exterior is an assembly of variously angled aluminium shades, the shapes of which reference natural geometries and traditional Asian reed weavings, maximising natural light while shielding the glass roof from the sun. At night, internal lighting sets the building aglow. The integral Esplanade shopping mall feels like a bit of an add-on, but has some great restaurants and views across Marina Bay.

Whatever you think of the design, there's no doubting the Esplanade's success as an arts venue, with a non-stop programme of international and local dance, opera, classical music, jazz, cultural festivals, puppetry, recitals, installations and exhibitions wowing the masses.

Most tickets can be booked in advance through SISTIC (tel: 6348 5555; www.sistic.com.sg).

Even those of us who don't like to wear khaki waterproofs and hide in bushes all day with binoculars strapped to our heads will love this place. Covering 20 ha in the west of the island, the bird park is a feathery delight, particularly the Waterfall Aviary; a huge open-air forest dome featuring a 30m waterfall and thousands of beautiful 'free-ranging' birds. Check out the flamingo lake, pelican cove and underwater viewing gallery.

It sounds like an experiment from Frankenstein, but 'Connecting Plants with People' is the Botanic Gardens' catchcry. Wide green spaces like these are rare in Singapore, but they are perfect for soothing the soul. The National Orchid Garden here is a must-see, and the free open-air music concerts on the first Sunday of the month can be fun.

Meander through the frangipanni collection, the Evolution Garden's pre-historic plants or plunge into the four hectare 'original Singaporean jungle', a small slice of the kind of rainforest that once blanketed the island.

Red jump-suited maintenance brigades patrol with mowers, blowers and trimmers to keep the jungle at bay; pre-wedding photographers dab beads of sweat from nervous grooms' brows. At night, boughs are up-lit for magical effect.

The National Orchid Garden is also here, with over 60,000 plants and a 'cool house' showcasing orchids from cooler climes.

Built in 1865, the imposing Empress Place building (named in honour of Queen Victoria) lived through various incarnations before it was turned it into a museum in 1988.

The museum hosts touring and special exhibitions in addition to its 10 thematic galleries over three levels exploring traditional aspects of pan-Asian culture and civilisation.

The atmospherically lit interior shifts focus between exquisite, well-displayed artefacts from Southeast Asia, China, India, Sri Lanka and even Turkey, the emphasis on regions most strongly connected with Singapore's ethnic make-up.

Japan is conspicuously absent, but we're assured this is due to the lack of Japanese cultural influence over Singapore, rather than any WWII misgivings.

There's also a gallery examining Singapore's mercantile history along the Singapore River. The Armenian Street branch of the ACM is closed for renovations until 2008.

Currently closed for renovation, the Singapore History Museum, also known as the National Museum of Singapore, is due to reopen late 2006. The museum traces its ancestry back to Raffles himself, who conceived of the idea in 1823. The museum has substantial collections focusing on regional cultures, history and craft, and has a superb jade collection.

Ringed by imposing colonial façades, there are few more obvious symbols of British imperialism than the Padang's manicured lawns. Defying the tropical heat, the Singapore Cricket Club (est. 1852) struts its stuff to choruses of 'Huzzah!' and 'Cracking shot old bean!' from the members' pavilion. Rugby, bowls and football get an airing during the off-season.

The Art Museum champions the arts in an economically-obsessed nation. Architecturally it is one of Singapore's finest colonial buildings. Exhibitions range from classical Chinese calligraphy to electronic arts. Even if the works are not your cup of tea, the building is worth a look and the museum has a good café facing Queen St.

Liquid Room is positively tiny, but don't let size put you off. This is Singapore's most progressive dance space, hosting some of the island's best DJs including satirical cultural observer X'ho. If dancing isn't tempting you, opt for the groovy lounges. The candlelit outdoor area is a great chill-out spot featuring 'downtempo' DJs.

Dark and dripping with cool, the new kid on the club scene is making some noise with dance and techno tracks. There is a loungy Shag Room for some downtime or you can stare blissfully at the eerily lit tanks of jellyfish.

The one-time hang-out of Barings' bank breaker Nick Leeson, Harry's gets going early in the evening as corporate high-fliers and expats tell tall tales and do impromptu business. They're joined later in the evening by a mixed, upmarket crowd who come for the good jazz and city views. The upstairs bar is comfy for Sunday brunch.

Zouk is one of Asia's legendary clubs, and has an international reputation. It attracts big-name DJs and the main event, Zouk, is an Ibiza-inspired party space, throbbing with techno and happy house beats over several levels. The cover charge includes entry to the edgier Phuture and the exclusive Velvet Underground.

By night this bar is filled with glowing lights and dusky shadows. Gorgeous svelte things flit by the goldfish pond, ex-pats guzzle beer from sunken lounges, platters of Asian tapas make the rounds, chilling tunes snake into the dark - all under the watchful eyes of Buddha himself.

This dazzling hotel is sequestered in a huge neoclassical structure that was built in 1928 and (believe it or not) once housed the city's main post office. Specialising in sumptuousness and offering every imaginable mod-con, this is the city's grandest hotel address.

The Fullerton became a deluxe landmark hotel after extensive renovations that ended in 2001. The foyer introduces you to what makes this place so special: it is magically surrounded by facades seemingly borrowed from a European streetscape, with a sub-fountain pool filled with enormous, luck-giving koi. The hotel is located on a small point with superb views of Marina Bay, Boat Quay and pretty much the whole downtown area, so definitely treat yourself to a water-view room. If you do choose a room overlooking the atrium, just head to the pool to sample some remarkable views. Strangely enough, the rooms are a little disappointing after the beauty of the lobby - it's as if the four-star rooms have stumbled into a five-star hotel. For the complete Fullerton experience, join the Straits Club, making yourself comfortable in the elegant reading room and around the well-stocked bar.

Allegedly the tallest hotel in Southeast Asia at the time of writing, this member of the swish Swissôtel international chain occupies a sizable corner of the Raffles City complex. They've tried to anticipate all the demands of luxury craving guests here, including multilingual concierges, and the hotel's first-rate service meets the highest expectations.

The dimensions and layout of the lobby give a good indication of what to expect in this snazzy contemporary place - from the creative use of space, with eyes constantly being drawn upwards towards the atrium's roof, to the abundance of light-coloured woods, paints and fabrics. In upper-level bars and restaurants like Equinox and Jaan, guests can enjoy superlative views, while in the airy lobby lounge they can relax over lurid looking cocktails. However, despite the obvious need for guests to underwrite the surrounding opulence, we personally don't think any hotel should charge S$8.00 for a simple cup of coffee. Checkout time here is a more than reasonable (13:00).

The proprietors of the Berjaya Duxton, which is signed The Duxton but is officially known as the Berjaya Hotel, like to refer to it as a 'grand home', which is a good description. Behind the hotel's modest curving facade, lined with green shutters, is a seductive mixture of luxury and privacy.

A discreet three storeys, the Berjaya Duxton has made itself at home on the slight bulge of Duxton Hill in the quiet southern fringe of Chinatown. It seems to be surrounded by a small, far less salubrious commercial district (if places like the nearby, aptly named Fling Bar are anything to go by). Unlike some other heritage-conscious hotels, its rooms and suites haven't been fashioned from some period template but instead have many individual touches in styling and placement of furniture. When you do feel like emerging from your room, head to the small but handsome lobby bar and then sit down to a meal in the hotel's French restaurant, L'Aigle d'Or, which has a multi-award winning wine list. And use the limo service to make grand entrances around the city.