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St Petersburg
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(Russia)


The grand dream of a Czar sits pretty on a swamp.

St Petersburg has been dubbed the Venice of the North for its palace-lined waterways. It managed to escape the architectural incursions of Stalinism and its grandiose relics of tsarist days are largely intact. Sculpted by islands and the sinuous Neva River, the city is a vista of geometric elegance.


Within this geometry is a dust-devil of influences and styles and a bewitching vortex of life's extremes. It's breathtakingly gorgeous, it's ruefully falling apart; it's viscerally sensual, it's crude and vulgar; its very essence gets under your skin, but remains forever outside your grasp.

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To Do

St Petersburg isn't exactly gym crazy, but there's plenty of ways to keep active. In the summer, drift through the canals in a rowboat; in the winter settle in for some serious banya (bath house) action, try a couple of games in the city's numerous billiards joints or head out of town for some cross-country skiing. If you're the right kind of masochist, there's always ice swimming.

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St Isaac's Cathedral

The vast golden dome dominating the St Petersburg skyline is the neo-classical St Isaac's Cathedral. French designer Ricard de Montferrand kick-started proceedings in 1818, but construction took so long (the cathedral wasn't finished until 1858) that N

The granite was ordered from Finland (and delivered in specially built ships and railways), 100kg (220lbs) of gold leaf were used for the dome and the end result - a lavish interior of marble and mosaic - is a must-see. You can climb up the 43m-high (1

   
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Monument to the Heroic Defenders of Leningrad

The Siege/Blockade of Leningrad was one of the most significant events of WWII, and - some say - the history of war. South of the city and only 9km (6mi) from the front line, this impressive ensemble of bronze statues, centred on a 48m/158ft-high obeli

The underground exhibition is as eerie as it is informative, with a huge relief map of the front lines, cases featuring items from the siege, details of events that happened during the siege, and documentary films. The bronze lamps, haunting music and

   
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Hermitage

There are art galleries, there are museums, there are the great museums of the world and then there is the Hermitage. An unrivalled collection of art treasures housed in the magnificent palace from which the Romanov tsars ruled the Russian Empire, the

   
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Kazan Cathedral
  (religious/spiritual)

Built between 1801 and 1811, this cathedral (designed by Andrei Voronikhin, a former serf) was influenced by St Peter's in Rome. Voronikhin's original plan was to build a second, mirror version of the cathedral opposite it. This is a working cathedral

   
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Summer Garden

This is perhaps St Petersburg's loveliest and oldest park. Laid out for Peter the Great with fountains, pavilions and a geometrical plan to resemble the park at Versailles, it became a stomping ground for 19th-century ladies (and gentlemen) of leisure.

The modest, two-storey Summer Palace, in the northeastern corner of the park, was St Petersburg's first palace, built for Peter in 1704-14, and now open to the public. Little reliefs around the walls depict Russian naval victories, and many rooms conta

   
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JFC Jazz Club
  (live music)

Small and New York-styled, this is the best of its kind in the city and features nightly jazz, blues and improv bands from Russia and around the world performing styles including dixie-land, jazz-rock and avant-garde jazz.

   
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Manhattan
  (club/disco)

In this raucous Fontanka-side basement there's always a sociable, arty/student crowd enjoying the boho atmosphere and the (often ear-splitting) live music. There are usually a couple of bands doing sets each evening and DJs keep the crowd happy the res

   
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Taverna Olivia

Taverna Olivia is a superb addition to the St Petersburg dining scene, but there is nothing taverna-like about this cavernous place, subtly painted and decorated in an array of Greek styles. The menu is traditional and the food is both excellent value

   
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Byblos
  (Lebanese)

The only Lebanese place in town, Byblos is superb and attracts a large crowd for its excellent value lunch, as well as a more relaxed evening clientele. Here you'll find delicious mezze, hummus, kibbeh, tabbouleh, and of course hookahs and Lebanese win

   
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Sukawati
  (vegetarian)

The first Indonesian restaurant in Russia has impressed the in-crowd with its stylish ethnic decor and delicious, reasonably authentic fare including plenty of dishes for vegetarians. Their business lunch is a great deal.

   
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Kafe Tbilisi
  (Eastern European)

This place is a St Petersburg institution. A Georgian restaurant coming to you charmingly from Soviet central planning, Kafe Tbilisi remains a beloved institution to many residents of the city, clunky 1970s style and dark decor notwithstanding. Don't m

   
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