Stockholm is built on islands, except for the modern centre (Norrmalm), which is focused around the ugly Sergels Torg. This business and shopping hub is linked by a network of subways to Centralstationen (central train station); the popular gardens of Kungsträdgården lie just to the east. The subways link with the metro (tunnelbana or T) stations. The triangular island Stadsholmen and its neighbours accommodate Gamla Stan, separated from Norrmalm by the narrow channels of Norrström near the royal palace, but connected by several bridges. To the west of this is Lake Mälaren.

On the south side of Stadsholmen, the main bridge Centralbron and the Slussen interchange connect with the southern part of the city, Södermalm, and its spine Götgatan. From its top end the giant golf ball of the stadium Globen is the southern landmark, although you'll cross water again at Skanstull before reaching it. To the east of Gamla Stan is the small island of Skeppsholmen, and farther down Strandvägen and past the berths you cross to Djurgården, topped by Skansen.

Sweden has an extensive railway network, and trains are certainly the fastest way to get around. There are four long-distance train operators in Sweden, but the national network of Sveriges Järnväg covers most of the main lines. Exceptions are the overnight trains from Stockholm to Boden and Narvik, and the summer-only line from Boden to Haparanda, run by Tågkompaniet. Several counties run regional länstrafik train networks.

Driving in central Stockholm is not recommended; traffic is chaotic and fuel and parking are expensive. Illegally parked cars will get a fine; those deemed dangerous will be towed more than 17km (10.5mi) out of town at the owner's expense.

Taxis can be hailed from the kerb and are easy to find on busy streets or in front of bars at closing time. Cabs that are on duty have a lit 'taxi' sign on their roof. Most drivers speak at least some English, but if your Swedish is shaky it helps to have an address written down.

Sweden is a flat country, and it's ideal for cycling (from May to September at least). Cycling is an excellent way to look for points of interest in and around Stockholm, such as prehistoric sites, rune stones, parish churches and quiet spots for free camping.