The Glass & Ceramic Museum is one of the most impressive in Iran, not only for the exhibits but for the building itself, an interesting example from the Qajar period. The exhibits are beautifully presented in modern, individually lit cases and it's

If you only visit one museum in Tehran, this should be it. Rubies, emeralds, diamonds, pearls and spinels are trowelled onto everything from crowns and sceptres to cloaks, jewellery boxes and swords. Some of them inspired wars.

Among the impressive displays is a world globe with rubies forming the countries and emeralds the oceans, and the famous Peacock Throne. It's in the basement vault of Bank Melli; look for the huge black gates and machine-gun-toting guards.

The Golestan Palace is a monument to the excesses of the Qajar shahs and includes several buildings open to the public and set around a formal garden. You can wander around the gardens and admire the painted tilework for free, otherwise each museum req

The best museums are the Ivan-e Takht-e Marmar (Marble Throne Verandah), a ceremonial hall containing an imposing alabaster throne; Negar Khane, a gallery with a fine collection of Qajar artworks; and the many-mirrored Shams-Al Emarat (Edifice of the S