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Travel Guide » Asia » Tokyo
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Tokyo
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(Japan)


An adrenaline-pumping bullet-train ride to a place of deep calm.

The sheer level of energy is the most striking aspect of Japan's capital city. Tokyo is a place where the urgent rhythms of consumer culture collide with the quieter moments that linger from older traditions. It's hectic madness leavened by the most Zenic of calms.


While it's true the exciting vibe has a somewhat depressing flip side - shoebox housing estates and office blocks traversed by overhead expressways crowded with traffic - Tokyo remains a glittering example of the 'miracle' of post-WWII Japan.

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History
Pre 20th Century History

When the first Europeans came to Tokyo in the 16th century, there was little to indicate that the fishing village of Edo would become one of the world's major cities. Edo's growth was rapid and dramatic from 1600, when a power struggle between feudal lords led to the village becoming a power base for the dominant Tokugawa Ieyasu. Such was the extent of his power that the emperor appointed Tokugawa shogun, or military administrator. Under a ruling that demanded all feudal lords spend every second year in Edo (their families had to remain in Edo permanently), Tokugawa built a thriving city, and consolidated national power for the first time.


In 1638, after massacring a number of Christians, Ieyasu's grandson closed Japan to almost all foreign trade. This radical isolation policy remained in place for almost three centuries. Despite the isolation, Edo thrived and by the early 17th century was the largest city in the world, with over one million people. The city was organised geographically by profession and philosophically by rank and status. In modern Tokyo there are still remains of this structure, with small enclaves specialising in specific wares.


The turning point for Edo - and all of Japan - came in 1853 when Commodore Matthew Perry's armada of 'black ships' arrived to demand that Japan open treaty ports. With the arrival of Westerners came a far-reaching social revolution. The Tokugawa regime was powerless to halt the flood of progress and power was handed - though not without a fight - back to Emperor Meiji. In 1868 the seat of imperial power was moved from Kyoto to Edo, which was renamed Tokyo (Eastern Capital) in the process.

Modern History

Industrialisation and militarisation accompanied Japan's entrance into the 20th century. Western-style construction was introduced and Japan had military victories over China and Russia. Furthermore, Taiwan, Korea and Micronesia were annexed. In Tokyo, the rush of industry brought people from all over Japan to the capital.

At noon on 1 September 1923, the Great Kanto Earthquake struck Tokyo. For 40 hours, fires raged, laying waste to the expanding city. Although rebuilding began almost immediately, opportunities to improve and further transform old Tokyo were lost. A little over 20 years later - and also in tragic circumstances - Tokyo was to get a second 'chance' to rebuild.


Around 80,000 lives were lost in the Tokyo air raids during WWII, and about two-fifths of the city was flattened. The raids were at least as destructive as the atomic bombs dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Following the Japanese surrender, Tokyo again rose quickly. Transformed into something of a honky-tonk town during the post-war occupation years, the capital thrived on profits from the Korean War and has not looked back since. Awarded the Olympic Games in 1964, Tokyo grew like never before, and firmly established itself as a real power player in the world economy. The 1980s saw Tokyo bask in the shine of the 'bubble economy', but its burst in 1989 hit the city hard - many say it still has not fully recovered.

Recent History

It was further shaken in 1995 by the nerve gas attack on a crowded city commuter train, which killed 12 and injured 5000. In 2001 Japan's debt rating was downgraded from AAA to AA+, with the country's economy remaining rocky since then - a high rate of bankrupt golf courses stand as a potent sign of the economy's malaise. Despite the economic gloom, Tokyo remains a singular expression of Japanese modernity, with business diversity rarely seen anywhere else on earth.

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