Head for Nivati and explore another Maratha sea fort, or just lie back and watch the fishermen sweat it out with their huge dragnets. Refresh yourself with water from the perennial spring within the walls of Nivati Killa, or gaze out at the sublime views of Bhogwe Beach.

Little known and silent so far on the regal spectrum, the erstwhile royal fief of Sawantwadi still hosts a living Rani of the Bhonsale Dynasty and an old palace. It was to be restored and some of the buildings converted into a hotel. However, that plan seems to have been shelved. You can still pay a visit to the palace though. Right from the puppeteers from Pinguli who poke fun at pandits (complete with a wooden mouse puppet that runs away with the puja coconut), and ganjifa cards (a game dating back to the Mahabharata) this Heritage City is coming into its own. First check out the palace (Timings: 9 am-8 pm, entry free) . Sawantwadi Palace makes you wonder if you have ever seen palaces before. This is a simple building constructed in chire (red laterite), with ivy growing up the sides, surrounded by towering palm trees. Drive here first, or rick it to Moti Talao, the pearl lake that lies in front of the palace. Built in the era of Khem Sawant Bhonsale III (1755-1803), the palace buildings possess the rustic beauty of Maharashtra's wadis uplifted to regal proportions. Rani Satvashiladevi's residence is private but the Darbar Hall is open to visitors. Wander in and you find a statue of Victoria within the halls. You could also request the attendants to uncover the silver-backed throne, which lies under a grand swathe of red velvet. From here, walk down to the working area of the palace where artisans paint ganjifa cards and make the famous lacquered furniture of Sawantwadi. While here, stop off at Kanekar Toys in the main bazaar and pick up your own set of ganjifa cards, wooden toys, puzzles and Babushka dolls (in red saris or an Air India maharaja look-alike). Their most popular showpieces are painted wooden fruit, but do not leave the store without buying a kitchen set painted wood, with chakla, belan, puran poli and chakli-makers. Thirty buses a day ply between Sawantwadi and Vengurla, via Math and Tulas, from 6 am to 8.30 pm. 1. Konkan Crown ( central) Railway Station Road, Nirawade Tel 02363-258555/ 347/ 551 Website konkancrown.com Accommodation 25 rooms Tariff Rs 600-1,500; taxes extra Credit Cards Visa, MasterCard Facilities Travel desk, swimming pool, transportation, doctor-on-call, room service, STD/ ISD, health club, games, restaurant, bar, kiddies park Mumbai Reservations Samarth Travels, 201/ 18, Anand Bhavan, TH Kataria Marg, Mumbai-400016. Tel: 022-26301705-06 The 24-hr Food Fiesta restaurant serves Konkani. Make this your base for Vengurla. 2. Hotel Tara (central) Gandhi Chowk Tel 02363-272923, 272644 Accommodation 14 rooms Tariff Rs 320-520 Credit Cards Not accepted Facilities Restaurant, permit room, TV, intercom. A popular halt en route to Goa, serving Chinese and Punjabi dhaba meals.