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Vengurla
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(Maharashtra)


Life is a beach

When you fall short of words you begin to spout poetry. Sounds illogical, but when you are the only soul sitting on a beach under a canopy of stars with just thundering waves and a lonely lighthouse for company, believe me, it?s easy. Life truly is a beach. I hit upon this truth early one morning on the sands of Vengurla's Sagareshwar Beach, as the first light began etching out the world around and the soft sand took on a golden hue. With its white foaming surf, deep blue sea and a backdrop of swaying green palms, Sagareshwar is a picture postcard setting for a Me, myself and I kind of vacation.

And Sagareshwar, as the saying goes, is just the tip of the iceberg. Vengurla?s coastline is dotted with some of the most exotic and virgin beaches in Maharashtra. This small coastal town portrays the quintessential beauty of the Konkan: beautiful seashore, thick coconut groves and small undulating hills a veritable treasure chest of myriad shades of green.
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Minstrels and Their Magic
Pause awhile at an inconspicuous grocery shop near the village of Pinguli just off the highway near Kudal, 25 km before Vengurla, to meet Ganpat Sakharam Masge, an amazing artiste. Being the police patil of the area, he will probably be busy working at large formidable ledgers or sorting out life-and-death matters. But he quite likes to be disturbed by visitors who request to see his art. Even at short notice, he can call his troupe to organise a performance for the same evening. And in the enveloping darkness of the night, he will bring out his marionettes, convert the mundane into magic, and the team will hold spectators spellbound with their theatrics, music and words.

Masge is one of the surviving puppeteers of Pinguli, whose nomadic forefathers settled in the village in the mid-18th century, where they lived under the patronage of the erstwhile princely state of Sawantwadi. Now their numbers are sadly dwindling and they've been forced to take up agriculture or fishing.

Yet, during festivals, Pinguli's puppeteers bring out their treasures. Crafted with care are their lively, endearing leather puppets that throw dramatic shadows on a screen, and colourful chitrakathis throbbing with dramatic action. The string and leather puppets vividly convey action and war stories from the epics, while the chitrakathis gently convey narratives as the puppeteer shows one folio after the other to construct a chain of mythological events.

If you are passing Pinguli, you could meet with a puppeteer and request him to put up a small show for you. Settle payment beforehand. You could request him to tell you the narrative that he plans to emote before he begins, so even if it is in Marathi, you'll be able to follow it.

Afer the show, pay your respects at the picturesque little Math of Raul Maharaj in Pinguli.

Contact: Ganpat Sakharam Masge, Post Pinguli, Gudhipud, Taluka Kudal, District Sindhudurg, Maharashtra.
Content Source: 
Outlook Traveller
Contributed by: 
Sherwin Noronha with Pramila N Phatarphekar
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