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Vienna
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(Austria)


The Habsburg legacy is a feast for the senses, and the cake's not bad either.

Grandiose Vienna was the showpiece of the all-conquering Habsburg Dynasty. Monumental edifices line the city centre, world-class museums burst with treasures, white stallions strut their way down mirrored halls, and renowned orchestras and angelic choirboys perform in lavish concert halls.


Vienna has plenty of lower-brow pleasures too - walks in the woods, splish-splashing high jinks on the river, slap-up indulgent evenings in its renowned wine taverns, bar-hopping till dawn. If you can't find something to please you in this generous, opulent, open-armed city, you're ready for the grave.

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Entertainment & Night Life
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To Do

The famous Danube is central to Viennese outdoor life: you can swim in it, boat on it, cycle beside it or skim along its surface. Walking in the woods is another classic Viennese pastime. You can liven up your amble with a guided tour or a stop-off at the Prater's famous Ferris wheel.

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Schloss Schönbrunn
  (castle)

This sumptuous baroque palace is one of Vienna's most popular attractions. It has 1441-rooms-worth of imperial splendour (of which 40 can be visited), complete with a classically landscaped garden. Additional attractions (with separate entrance fees) include a maze and the world's oldest zoo.

The pinnacle of finery is reached in the Great Gallery. Gilded scrolls, ceiling frescoes, chandeliers and huge crystal mirrors create the effect. Numerous sumptuous balls were held here, including one for the delegates at the Congress of Vienna (1814-15).

The Mirror Room is where Mozart (then six) played his first royal concert in the presence of Maria Theresa and the royal family in 1762. His father revealed in a letter that afterwards young Wolfgang leapt onto the lap of the empress and kissed her.

The Round Chinese Room is over the top but rather ingenious too. Maria Theresa held secret consultations here: a hidden doorway led to her adviser's apartments and a fully laden table could be drawn up through the floor so the dignitaries could dine without being disturbed by servants.

   
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Riesenrad
  (theme park/funfair)

This 65m-high Ferris Wheel (Riesenrad), featured in the film The Third Man, provides an excellent elevated view across the city. It's within the Prater funfair, where there are loads of fun things for children to do. If they like horses then take them to the carousel where they can ride 'live' horses.

The amusement park has all sorts of funfair rides, ranging from gentle merry-go-rounds to stomach-twisting big dippers. There are bumper cars, go-karts, haunted houses, games rooms, mini-golf, a mini-train and plenty of places to eat and drink.

Even if you don't like fairground rides, it's a great place just to wander and soak up the atmosphere. As you walk, you're liable to bump into one of the colourful metal sculptures depicting humans caught up in strange hallucinogenic happenings. Some are rather witty. Look for them on Rondeau and Calafattiplatz.

   
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Central Cemetery - Zentralfriedhof

Despite its name, this cemetery is out in the suburbs. It's an ideal place to rest in peace for a while. There are impressive memorials to the famous composers (Beethoven, Brahms, Schubert, Mozart, etc) and to post-war Austrian presidents.

In 1784 the huge Zentralfriedhof (Central Cemetery) was opened, because there was simply no more space in the city cemeteries. To try to persuade the populace that their future dearly departed would rest better in this new location, they shipped the coffins of famous composers to the Zentralfriedhof, where they now rest together in group 32A. An unusual method was contemplated for transporting bodies to the suburban site: engineers drew up plans for a tube, many kilometres long, down which coffins would be fired using compressed air. However, the high cost of this scheme (one million florins) led to its abandonment.

   
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Sigmund Freud Museum
  (celebrity)

This museum is in the apartments where Freud lived and worked from 1891 to 1938. It contains his furniture, possessions, letters, documents, photographs and even a home movie of Freud, narrated by his daughter, Anna. Very detailed notes in English illuminate the exhibits. Students and Freud freaks could spend a while here.

There is a lot to take in and most casual observers will probably just saunter through the rooms and wonder to what extent Freud's theories were influenced by that terracotta votive offering of male genitals (exhibit 35 on the ornaments shelf in the waiting room).

   
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Judenplatz
  (square)

The old Jewish quarter, Judenplatz, is just off the northeast corner of Am Hof. Here you'll find an attractive square underneath which are excavations of a medieval synagogue, a museum documenting the tumultuous history of Jews in Vienna, and a memorial to Austrian Jews who perished in the Holocaust.

The Jewish museum in the Judenplatz focuses on excavated remains of a medieval synagogue (1420) that once took pride of place on Judenplatz. The basic outline of the synagogue can still be seen and a small model of the building helps to complete the picture. Documents and artefacts dating from 1200 to 1400 are on display, and spacey interactive screens explain Jewish culture. On Judenplatz is Austria's first Holocaust memorial, the 'Nameless Library'. This squat, boxlike structure pays homage to the 65,000 Austrian Jews who were killed during the Anschluss.

   
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Schikaneder
  (bar)

Most of the colour in Schikaneder comes from the regularly projected movies splayed across one of its white walls - the students and arty crowd who frequent this grungy bar dress predominantly in black. But that's not to detract from the bar's atmosphere, which exudes energy well into the wee small hours of the morning.

   
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Palmenhaus
  (food onsite)

A beautifully renovated palmhouse complete with high, arched ceilings, glass walls and steel beams, this is one of the better locations in town. The crowd is generally well-to-do, but the ambience is often relaxed and welcoming to all walks of life. The outdoor seating in summer is fantastic.

   
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Futuregarden Bar & Art Club
  (art-related)

With white walls, an open bar and basic furniture, it's hard to find a simpler place in Vienna. Its one piece of decoration - apart from the occasional exhibition by local artists - is its rectangular disco 'ball'. Futuregarden attracts a 30s to 40s crowd eager to soak up the buzzing atmosphere and listen to Vienna's electronica heartbeat.

   
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Kantine
  (cafe)

This upbeat cafe/bar, complete with disco ball, is housed in the former stables of the Emperor's personal horses. If the fresh daily menu, typically an Asian or Viennese dish with a vegetarian or fish choice thrown in, is sold out, you'll have to settle for salad-filled pita bread. Grab a cocktail from the extensive list and make use of the outdoor patio.

   
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Café Hawelka
  (cafe)

At first glance it's hard to see what all the fuss is about: dirty pictures, ripped posters, brown-stained walls, smoky air and cramped tables don't look too appealing. But a second glance explains it - the convivial vibe between friends and complete strangers. A traditional haunt for artists and writers, it attracts the gamut of Viennese society.

   
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Café Landtmann
  (cafe)

Landtmann attracts both politicians and theatre-goers with its elegant interior and close proximity to the Burgtheater, Rathaus, and Parliament. The list of coffee specialities is formidable and the dessert menu features classics like the Sacher Torte and Apfelstrudel. There's a huge selection of newspapers to read, and live piano music on Sunday evenings.

   
Events
When does it occur
New Year's Day
1 Jan
Epiphany
6 Jan
Easter Monday
Mar/Apr
Labour Day
1 May
Ascension Day
40 days after Easter
Whit Monday
6th Mon after Easter
National Day
26 Oct
All Saints' Day
1 Nov
Immaculate Conception
8 Dec
Christmas Day
25 Dec
St Stephen's Day
26 Dec
Corpus Christi
2nd Thu after Pentecost
Assumption
15 Aug
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